Chosen Solution
I drive my car for more then 20 minutes and cut engine off, I pull the dipstick and light smoke comes out. There is a burnt smell paired with it. Usually it happens after a vigorous traffic light trip, with lots of idling, this intermittent as well, sometimes it’s pure, I pull the dipstick and even the oil filler cap and it smell clean and even, then the other day I pulled it and their was smoke, the oil isn’t milky, so I dont believe anything’s being pulled and mixed. When I first start the car, the exhaust purges darn near perfect, light smoke output, few drops off condensation for a few seconds then just clean and It’s got me paranoid cause I’m having either sending unit or cluster issues with my dash as well, so I’m in the complete dark as I’m driving as to how she’s feeling temp wise. No signs of over heating besides a hot piston bay and the smoke from the dipstick from time to time. 300+ k, I’m a novice at cars, obviously there’s the need for an engine bay cleaning to help clarify any leaks along with a complete regasket and seal. But I’m looking for ways to pin point if it’s something major or just to ignore it and write it off as old age and normal blow-by, I pulled the valve looks fine as well. I’m on a poor man’s budget. Please help. Update (02/28/2019) So I did as instructed, I found that radiator is passing coolant fine. However there is a ravaged bottom hose that’s hard in the middle where it looks like the last owner patched its instead of replacing and there’s a hole, the sweet burnt yet pissy smell I’ve been getting a wiff of comes from this area right up against the radiator. The framing under it is gunked to !&&*, so I know it has to be a slow coolant leak that caused the buildup. This wire housing on the back of radiator fan is cut. I don’t see any dangling connections either in it’s vicinity. But it does have me paranoid.
Also their is buildup under the water pump where there is under carriage shielding to protect from road damage, it’s been collecting it.
Bottom hose thats, patched and crappy, most likely part of the issue as well. Top view of my tuna cans insides, just so whoever wants to help has a more visual reference.
P.S having trouble locating thermostat to verify it’s condition, also any way to test radiator fan without a multimeter and bunch fancy words would be much appreciated.
Hi, Wondering if the engine is getting hot and is not being adequately cooled causing the heat from the engine block to be passed through onto the oil. Is the radiator fan working? I am assuming that there is the correct level of coolant in the system - check the level in the overflow reservoir when the engine is cold. Are the water pump and coolant thermostat working OK? To check the water pump and the thermostat, with a COLD engine, apply the handbrake (emergency brake) and place the transmission in Neutral (manual trans) or Park( auto) Next remove the radiator cap and then start the engine. Observe the coolant in the neck of the radiator. BE SAFETY AWARE _ THE ENGINE IS RUNNING!! After a while as the engine warms, at a preset temperature (set by thermostat), the coolant will start to swirl (or flow) in the neck of the radiator. This indicates that the thermostat has opened and that the coolant pump is working, pumping the coolant through the engine. Be careful as the coolant will expand as it gets warm and will want to flow out of the neck of the radiator. Turn off the engine as soon as you detect movement in the coolant and securely replace the radiator cap. If the coolant doesn’t start to flow, turn off the engine and feel the 2 hoses connected to the radiator. One should be hotter than the other. This indicates that either the thermostat didn’t open or that the pump is faulty. Try removing the thermostat (see YouTube videos for your model) and check if it is OK. If it is then the water pump is next on the list :-)
