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Amana top load washer has a 4 wire lock switch. I connect blue & white wires it will start to fill then stops & red lock light starts blinking ,then fill light blinks , that is all it does.
Do I recommend it? NO. The lid lock it to prevent injury to the people near the washer, as without it stopping the machine, the agitator will turn with the lid open. So. If you will open the top up, you should see the lid switch, and you should see the electric wires attached to it. With the machine unplugged, you can disconnect the wires to the lid switch and attach them to themselves, and the lid switch will then be by-passed.
I have a Whirpool with the 4 wire switch lock. I connected the blue and white wires started a load, and waited until the lid lock red light came on. At that point the lid light makes a clicking noise. That’s when I connect the red wire to the blue and white wires and wash cycle begin. Was able to wash.
Even AFTER you’ve installed a new switch and latch, it will still do this if the WATER to the washer is turned OFF, or if there’s not enough water pressure; there’s a pressure-activated switch inside the washer that won’t lock the door until it senses water pressure to the washer. Check your supply water pressure, or even better, turn the water ON! You’ll either be rewarded or know there’s something else wrong deeper inside the machine. Also, depending on the Amana model, this switch can have 2, 3, or 4 wires, and CANNOT BE BYPASSED BY “HOT WIRING A COUPLE OF WIRES TOGETHER” the way you could with the older washers where the switch was a simple on/off job. These new ones have a sensor back inside the body with the controls, and if the sensor’s not happy, the washer doesn’t turn on. Turn the water on, if it doesn’t work, replace the switch and latch assembly, if it still doesn’t work, take it to the shop. They have a tester there that gives the technician the error code he needs to fix the machine. Yeah, just like computers! Give me a 10-year-old, non-computerized Whirlpool or Maytag any day! Aloha, Tim……..
If your washer lid switch has only 2 wires going to it, AND it’s an older washer design that doesn’t lock but it stops spinning when you lift the lid, then you can connect those 2 wires together to bypass the swith. If you don’t know that GROUND is ALWAYS green then you don’t need to do any electrical DIY repairs. Newer washers with a lid lock and indicator lights that blink, you can not bypass the switch. These have more than 2 wires because it’s not one switch. They have several switches and even a magnetic switch that is activate when the lid is closed. You can duplicate it by putting to wires together. They are a huge inconvenience and most fail due to suds and water. Sometimes cleaning w/small brush is all it needs. If it doesn’t, you’ll need a new one. UNPLUG THE WASHER BEFORE CLEANING OR REPAIRING ANYTHING.
I have a Maytag Bravo Top Loader Washer MVWB835DW, and the lid locking mechanism has 6 wires with 2 wires connected to a tiny electrical motor that actuates the locking bar. It wasn’t working so to work around it, I connected the white and blue wires together. These 2 wires are the sensor that checks for the lid being closed. Actually these wires are the common negative connection for the locking bar. There is a magnetic continuity circuit check done with these 2 wires before anything else in the programming. My machine has a “Sensor” light that illuminates when the connection is active, or when it thinks the lid is shut. So to start with I connected the wires together. Then there are 2 other wires, light blue and red that are not connected to the motor. The light blue wire needs to be connected with the continuity wire (white and blue) to start with when I start the machine cycle. The programming checks for this connection first. After this check, the machine will activate the 2 wires connected to the tiny motor to actuate the locking bar. Afterwards, the programming will look for the red wire connected to the continuity wire (white and blue). So the work around goes like this. Regardless of the wire color, connect the continuity wires together, and make those the common pole on a switch. Then connect the lid lock open wire to the off pole of the switch and the lid lock closed wire to the on pole of the switch. Under operation, start with the new switch in the off position, then start the machine wash cycle as you would normally do, wait a couple of seconds, and then hit new switch so that it is in the on position.
I’m building what I call a Universal digital logic bypass emulator controller. It will make short work of any safety . I’m tired of the techs saying it’s impossible and being Rude wile doing it . As a micro Processor engineer I’m insulted and I’m taking safety back into our own hands my next design will incorporate a nano processor that is based on C++
This works temporarily.
Tried everything within good reason. D@mn the new Whirlfool, its made by G.D!, its going to the dump . I will not be held hostage by a washing machine door. Im installing a older model that is not a time wasting $hit fit to repair . Nuf Said….
The red and white wires are for the lid switch. The other two wires supply voltage to the coil that is also inside the switch. These are not as simple as twist together and go as in older machines.
GE toploader washer was clicking (relay like clicking sound) after water filled, but washer would not starting agitate or spin cycles and after a pause displaying “end”. I assumed lid switch bad and so tried to bypass switch. My model has three wire lid (GE model# GTW680 BSJ0WS). W ire colors at the lid switch are yellow, red, and violet (purple). Per schematic diagram found on another string on ifixit.com, Red at control board is “line”, yellow is “switch input” and violet is “lock input”. I tried jumping yellow to red per schematic. Unfortunately washer still will not spin or drain and I no longer hear the lid lock relay clicking. I took out the jumper and installed a new lid switch detector assembly… but still no joy. I installed a new switch lock assy and still no workey. Afraid I burned a board connection at the control board with incorrect jumper. Any help appreciated to test the control board and or correctly jump switch end to permanently tell the control board the lid is closed and locked!!?? thanks, - wwwade
Which two wires to I wire together for a admiral washing machine to bypass lid lock?
