Chosen Solution

My machine is actually an LG - I didn’t see that option, so I just used whatever.
Anyhow, I have a WM3150HVC frontload washer that died. No power at all. I have been without a washer for far too long, and the laundromat is eating our finances alive!! Finally, (280 dollars later), I received and installed the correct PCB and poof! Heard that awful pop and the machine shut back down :( My heart sunk!! So, it appears to have a blown fuse in the PCB (just like the original board), and it is now a mere 280 dollar paper weight.  So, I just ordered a new noise filter hoping that’s the issue (even though the original does not appear to have a bad fuse, per the multimeter)l. I also went ahead and ordered a new pump. We did have some issues with the pump (error codes) during long washes before it died, so we stuck to short washes until the machine went kaput altogether.  I have checked all the wires all the way down and there does not appear to be any damage. I have not used the multimeter in the lower area because my husband said he wants to do that (something about the meter “exploding in my hands,” that was all I needed to hear), so I will let him do that. All wires up top checked out ok, though.  Is there anything else I should replace so I don’t short another fuse? We plan to just bypass the original fuse (since it is not a removable fuse, it is fixed in place in the “silicone pool”), replace the noise filter, replace the pump, and replace one button that seemed to have broken on the front panel (it’s plastic…the springy part inside broke, and also curious if this could have caused a short)…and then pray. I cannot spend another day at the laundromat - I would rather stick a fork in my eye. Can anyone please tell me if I am on the right track, or if there is anything else I am missing??? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Update (10/03/2018) Thank you so much, Mayer!! I will do that tomorrow before hubby puts new parts on, and then have him double check. The pump is going to require us to have to remove the entire front of the washing machine (ugh), so maybe we can check the wire to the pump easier…it could be bad. I forgot to mention that on long washes, we did have leakage at the bottom where the pump is at, in addition to the error codes. We had no issues on the quick wash, which is what we used mostly. If we tried to do any heavy, long washes, we usually ended up with a small pool of water in the bottom drawer or an error code.
Also, can anyone shed light on why the pump “hose/valve” never had water in it to drain. The only way we could get water to drain from the pump would be by opening the big valve to the pump (if any of this makes sense).
Thanks again for your reply!! Update (10/05/2018) Thank you so much, again, Mayer. We do have a small hole in the boot and will order one of those today. I wonder if the water that’s been leaking caused the problem below.
As my husband was attempting to replace the water pump, he noted above the pump (and slightly to the right, right underneath the opening of the door of the washer) that 2 of the wires looked burnt! This could explain why the fuse to the main board got fried, but not the noise filter, as that fuse is still good. Also, as he was working on the pump, I purchased and used a fuse holder and managed to bypass the original blown fuse on the old main board and make it work!!
As I was writing this, my husband mentioned “heat or steam thermistor.” We’re going to look into that and do another update.
Can’t thank you enough for all of your help!

This clearly sounds like a short. Use a multimeter and start testing. But first gently jiggle the wires and see if you can spot the loose one and examine for burned spots, blackened wiring or other anomalies. UPDATE Common solutions for: Washer leaking water Solution 1: Drain Pump The drain pump pumps water out the drain hose. If the drain pump is cracked or damaged, or if the bearings are worn out, the drain pump may leak water. The drain pump is not repairable—if the pump is leaking water, replace it. Solution 2: Tub Seal and Bearing Kit The tub seal might be torn, causing water to leak from the seal. If the tub seal is leaking water, water may leak through the tub seal and into the tub bearings. This can cause the bearings to fail. For this reason, if the tub seal is leaking water, replace both the tub seal and the tub bearings. Be aware that this is a complicated repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. Solution 3: Tub Seal The tub seal might be torn, causing water to leak from the seal. If the tub seal is leaking water, water may leak through the tub seal and into the tub bearings. This can cause the bearings to fail. … Solution 4: Door Boot Seal The door boot seal might be torn, causing water to leak from the seal. If the boot seal is torn, replace it. Solution 5: Tub-to-Pump Hose The tub-to-pump-hose might be split or torn. If the tub-to-pump-hose is damaged, replace it. Do not attempt to cut off the damaged piece of hose and stretch the hose to fit the pump. Stretching the hose will put strain on the remainder of the hose and may cause the hose to suddenly rupture. Solution 6: Drain Hose The drain hose may be leaking. The drain hose most commonly leaks from the connection between the pump and the back of the washer. If the washer is pushed too far against the wall, the hose can rub against the wall and form a leak. Inspect the drain hose for leaks. If the drain hose is leaking, replace it.