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Hello. I have a Kenmore elite fridge, that isn’t cooling. It’s a little over a year old, shouldn’t be anything major. Called local repair guy, paid a $30 service call, said was out of freon. I ordered bullet piercing value and got can stop leak with freon. After hooking everything up, the gauge was reading it has freon. So paid service call for nothing lol. Looking for advice on what to do next. No error codes, fan and compressor are running, just not cooling. Model number is 795.74023.411 Thanks in advance, great site. Been reading a lot of articles on here.

Hi @zookster , What is not cooling the fridge, the freezer or both? Which fan is running? The evaporator fan, the condenser fan or both? The evap fan will not run with the doors open -don’t want to blow cold air out the door - so you’ll have to listen for it running. Close and open door and listen if you can hear it start / stop with door close / open. Is the evaporator getting icy cold? It is behind a panel in the freezer compartment as is the evap fan. Here is a link to the parts for your fridge. It is handy as it gives an idea of the general location of the parts Update (02/12/2018) Hi @zookster , I know you said that you checked the refrigerant but do you know that for the Kenmore Elite series appliances (refrigerators) that there is a warranty of Five Years on the Sealed Refrigerant System and Ten Years on the Linear Compressor This is not as good as it sounds. After 1 year you still have to pay for the labour to get it repaired under warranty, just not the parts. Something to think about if you find that the compressor is faulty. Here is the link to the warranty provisions. Scroll down to refrigerators

No fix for mind either, it’s the compressor which is an epidemic on these LG refrigerators. They only last anywhere between one to three years. And like stated above no one wants to work on them. I did get a local repair guy to come out as soon as he looked at it he said throw it away and buy a new one. He said Samsung and LG make the worst refrigerators on the market with the least warranties. He said I know it’s horrible news, I would love to take your money, but you need to cut your losses and buy a reliable refrigerator. I was advised putting any money into my LG refrigerator would be a waste because it would develop the same problem in short-order again. He said purchase either GE, Whirlpool, or Frigidaire. I opted for a new Frigidaire with a 5 year warranty

Wow…. sounds like were all in the same boat here, approx 4 years ago we purchased a Kenmore elite fridge and just last month the 2nd compressor went out just the same. Turns out that when the sears tech came and installed the new compressor the first time, he informed us that it was a bad design from LG and that the condensing coil had to also be changed out at the same time with the compressor due to the fact that the condensing coil was made out of aluminum and not steel. The problem with the condensing coil being aluminum is that over time, the refrigerant starts to break down the condenser (being aluminum) and the small contaminants start to float within the system and that can cause the capillary tube to become plugged and not cycle any refrigerant within the system so cooling effect doesn’t take place. Just last week I decided to put my refrigerant gauges on the system and exactly what i had expected, when i checked out the pressures on the gauges the high side gauge was reading approx 110 PSIG so i knew that the compressor was trying to push the gas, and the low side was in the negative side where it was actually in a vacuum. Just to inform most of you out there a refrigeration system is never supposed to run into a vacuum state, it might be around 5PSI and that would be if the coils were frozen but never into a vacuum, especially when the evaporator and freezer coils are as warm as they are. And so when I see that the low side of the system is in a vacuum state and the output side of the compressor is reading 110 PSIG pressure then there is a restriction some where in the system. usually at the front side of the cap tube therefor not allowing the gas to boil off in the coils and driving down temps to get cold. One more thing to think about, if by some chance the service tec didn’t use dry nitrogen to pressurize and flush out debris within the system after installing the new compressor then the system could still be contaminated and another failure is bound to happen. Looks like i’ll be repairing my own fridge since i cant depend on a sears tec to get it right the first time especially after purchasing this unit with a warranty. So looks like i’ll be disassembling the new compressor from the lines and back flushing the entire system with FJC 2032 Flush Solvent and dry nitrogen. Dry nitrogen is used instead of the 404A gas so as not to send it into the environment (Would really hate to get caught doing this and loose my refrigeration licence) If you get the chance check out this Utube video (Clearing a blockage - J D Nel Refrigeration) to understand exactly what needs to be done to remove the blockage and hopefully put your fridge back into service.. And yes one more thing to remember, always make sure that your fan and condenser is as clean as possible so that your compressor doesn’t take a chance of running to hot and cooking the oil inside the compressor and plugging up the refrigerant lines. Update (12/04/2019) WOW!! what a problem we’re all facing with this fridge design “french door” Anyways, believe it or not the real problem with this fridge design is not the compressor, its the way the refrigerant is being distributed to the refrigerator evaporator. I’ve posted already in explanation “ how a refrigeration system works, and ways to clean out the entire system after a compressor burnout” Lets see, first off, the problem was that when they designed this fridge the manufacture installed an aluminum condenser coil either to save money or who knows why?? Anyway when this fridge runs for awhile the refrigerant and or mineral oil starts to break down this coil and cause contaminants to float within the system, sure the filter/dryer catches these particles but over time this dryer starts to become plugged and pose problems for the entire system. The best thing I found out to do is to call Sears and have a service tec. come out and change out both the compressor and the condenser coil (new design is made of steel now)at the same time and also install a new filter dryer (which they should do anyways) so that you can get these parts under the warranty. Then making %#*@ sure that he or she either blows out the entire system with nitrogen or even better yet flush out the system with FJC 2032 Flush Solvent to get rid of these particles. My fridge was still not cooling perfectly, so what I ended up doing was cutting open the system and changing out the 3-way refrigerant valve (this valve supplies gas for both the refrigerator and the freezer cooling evaporators) it either sends gas to the fridge or the freezer depending on which one needs cooling at the time. And also changing out the capillary tube that feeds the fridge evaporator, this cap tube is sized for both freezer and fridge to run at the same time which runs good when their both running. But what happens is that when fridge is calling for cooling and not the freezer this cap tube being the size it is and only one of the tubes flowing refrigerant at the time overloads the compressor and it really struggles to push this small amount of gas. Long story short, I ended up correcting this problem with cutting open the back of my refrigerator to get access to this capillary tube and removing it and installing the next size tube to help relieve this pressure and it’s worked great ever since…. The original size of this tube is roughly 0.031 I.D. so I changed it to the next size 0.040 I.D. and one more thing like I said in one of my other posts is that when i originally put my refrigeration gauges on the system I was getting a reading of 110 gauge pressure on the high side and pulling itself into a vacuum on the low side. This type of pressure you definitely don’t want to see especially with it running into a vacuum state. You see with this compressor running in the vacuum state it gets absolutely no cooling (or a slight amount of refrigerant flood back known as super heat to keep this compressor cool) My refrigerator now runs around 36 degrees with it set to 34 and the freezer runs at around -10 degrees. With the gauge reading now around 110 psi on the high side which is good, but now i’m getting around 7-10 psi on the low side definitely GREAT!! and this unit now purrs like a kitten.. And compressor stays nice and cool!!!

My Kenmore Elite refrigerator is having the same problem. It’s 2 years old and I’ve been advised to trash it. Does anyone what it? I feel sick about it going to the landfill. It’s in awesome shape other than the compressor doesn’t work as per two repairmen!!!! Model 795.74023.412. Also, there’s a class action lawsuit for these refrigerators that I’ve signed up for, some of you may want to do the same: https://www.classaction.org/lg-refrigera…

Class Action Suit: https://www.classaction.org/lg-refrigera… I submitted my information and they got back to me asking for more details about 1 week later.
Good luck! Sears/Kenmore/LG have been unethical and deceptive with these refrigerators. Companies cannot take advantage of their customers like this, it is just completely unacceptable. If they made a bad product, they need to own that 100%.

I have the same issue. I found the technical papers with some primitive troubleshooting procedures but enough to get an idea of what is going on. It says to check the voltage level on the main controller board connector to the compressor, “CON201”. With the compressor connector disconnected, unplugging the fridge and pluggin it in again and measure the the voltage on “CON201”. After 30 seconds it should go to 200VAC. Mine did not. The measurements were jumping all over from about 12VAC to 70VAC. The sheet recommended testing the voltage with the compressor connector connected and after 10 minutes check the voltage on “CON201” (you will have to push test leads into back of connector to make contact). It should be 80VAC. Mine was not. It was all over the place like the other measurement. So the next morning the fridge is suddenly operating normally again. I decided the check the running voltage at “CON201” again. It is still jumping all over but this time it is jumping up above 100VAC. Don’t know how long it will work and I don’t trust it. It may have been stuck in defrost mode but the only way to fix the issue seems to be to replace the main controller. Getting the part will take days as most places don’t stock it.

We are on our second Kenmore junk elite model 795.740 31 cu ft. First stopped cooling with no error codes, called home warranty service and the sent Sears out. What a cluster. They ordered parts to test the Freon, one week, then more parts, two more weeks, fianally said it was a Freon leak somewhere in the cabinet somewhere would not be able to repair the unit. One month without a fridge and home warranty paid most of the money to replace. We purchased the same unit again. My wife is not happy as less than 3 years later we are in the same situation and waiting for the sears third party to come out and tell us what’s wrong. No error codes. Top is near 40-47 and freezer below is high 20s.

I don’t know if this has anything to do with my refrigerator working again, but after a week of no cooling or freezing I put it in and out of demo mode a couple of times. The next day it started working and has worked now for several months. I don’t know, but it doesn’t cost anything to try and see if it works.

Kenmore elite less than 2 years old stopped cooling/freezing a few months ago. We called a tech out. He said the control panel needed to be replaced so I ordered a new one. The day it arrived the fridge started working again after I put it in and out of demo mode several times over several days like someone else here suggested. We decided to hold onto the part for a little bit. A month and a half later and it stops cooling/freezing again. Got a tech out to look at it and he pulled the drawer completely off and said there was no freeze pattern which means the compressor isn’t working. The compressor is covered by Sears, but not the labor. In the meantime we have bought a Whirlpool. (Just an FYI, the Sears 5 year warranty was over $1000 so we didn’t get it. The Lowe’s and Home Depot warranties are less than $300 for 5 years and you get 30% of it back if you don’t use it. Also when you purchase the water filters after the first one, you can submit the receipt and get half your money back during the 5 years.) I still have a large piece of junk sitting in the garage that I’m trying to figure out what to do with.

Thanks for the heads up on the class action suit. I just submitted my information/situation.

Well I replaced the compressor in mine and it worked for about 10 months and now is broken again. This time the problem is that the refrigerator is not cooling sufficiently (55-58 deg) but the freezer seems ok (5 deg). Evaporator fan in the fridge is running and the evaporator coil in fridge is only slightly frosted (first few inches). The high and low line pressures when compressor is running are about 125 and 7 respectively, which is about where they were when the compressor was changes (100/0 according to my notes). So the compressor has not failed this time, but for some reason the refrigerator evap is not cooling. I suppose it could be a restriction or maybe the 2-way valve that supplies the two evaporator circuits is not operating properly. I assume it is not worth fixing again unless someone knows otherwise. So… I am considering buying a new refrigerator. How can I make sure not to get another model that uses this problematic LG compressor? Mine was branded Kenmore. Btw, I did sign on to the class action. Thanks for that info!

Okay, first, is the freezer working, but not the fridge? If so, the vent is clogged. Air flows through a vent in between the fridge and freezer. Two things to do would be to defrost the system by turning it off. After it is fully defrosted, clean it, open the vent and clean it, check for anything that could block air flow. Plug it back in and feel for air flow, especially between then fridge and freezer. Also, listen to hear the compressor kick off. If you do not hear it go off, then you may need a kickstarter. It’s like a giant capacitor you attach to the fridge’s compressor to get it to turn over. You can order one online or buy one at a fridge parts replacement store.

Had the sears repair guy visit regarding kenmore elite fridge not cooling only 3 years old. Compressor shot ordered new one under warranty. Call out fee $99 wait 3-4 weeks for technician to return and install new compressor another $260. LG junk never again. All the while sears try and up sell monthly warranty on all your kenmore purchased items for $50 a month.

Kenmore Elite 795.7402 is notorious for linear compressor issues. Buyer Beware!!!!

Hi @Linda McCoy Is it more than or less than 5 years old? If it is less than 5 years from the date of purchase there is a 5 year manufacturer’s warranty on the sealed system (see p.3). You will have to pay for any labour but not for any parts that are found to be faulty. If the problem turns out to be the compressor then there is a 10 year manufacturer’s warranty on it.

Any updates? We have the same issues. Brought it to repair store and they said it may be the mother board.

After all the headaches with sears and spending hours and hours and i mean over 8 hrs on the phone every single say being transfered from department to department, i gave up. Compressor and freon was covered under warranty but they wanted 600 for labor so i decided to buy a compressor online and install it myself. 180 for compressor and 30 dollars in silver rods needed for brazing the lines.. and some freon… i have everything done on my own for under 250. Fridge works fine now but it seems to run 45 mins at a time to an hour and only shut off for 4-5 min or so and then compressor kicks back on… any ideas? This is a really horrible fridge….. we love it but hate it at the same time…. i dont think i remember it running that long and only 4-5 min rest time for the compressor….doesnt seem right to me. Any advice will be appreciated…

The compressor should have a 10 year warranty. I had mine for 5 years and it was covered. The labor isn’t covered and it cost me $380 and some change to fix it.

Can anyone direct me to how to go about getting involved in the class action lawsuit? This is crazy. We are reasonable people, spending our hard earned money on a piece of junk. I don’t think our concern is getting money for nothing. That’s what Sears did. Most of us want nothing more than a refrigerator that works. Cooling and freezing makes us happy and I don’t think it’s an unacceptable request. Thank you for any direction or advice you can provide.

Do not but a French door refrigerator by Kenmore Elite (actual manufacturer is LG) . The compressor is a known problem. It costs over $2K and is known to break down with 18 months. Fixed, same issue, as compressor has not been recalled or changed. Have dealt with this 2x in 3 years. All the decent technicians tell you, it will break again or just get rid or it. It is that bad. Customer Service takes hours of calls, thrown all over the world. Last year, no working refrigerator for 1 month, this year + Corona

Is your freezer cold and operating, but the refrigeragtor is warm, replace the frreezer light switch! This switch controls the cooling to the refrigerator section. Its an $8 dollar part. Or , simply pry it out of the casing and unplug it. You should hear the motor start. Hope this helps you! Garrett.s.daniels@gmail.com

Hi @Larry Bounds How old is the refrigerator? On many fridges the sealed system has a manufacturer’s warranty of 5 years on parts (not labour). The rest of the fridge usually only has the 12 months. Check the warranty on your model (look in the user guide) to see what it says. The sealed system includes the compressor, evaporator, condenser, filter dryer and associated pipes etc. If the problem is anywhere in this area except the pipes where they are encased in the cabinet insulation then it can be fixed. The refrigerant would have to be extracted, the faulty part replaced, the sealed system needs then to be evacuated (vacuum created) and new refrigerant put in and then the system needs to be tested to make sure that the pressures, temperatures etc, are OK and then resealed again. If it is no longer under warranty then it is more a decision of whether it is economically viable to do it or not given the age and condition of the refrigerator

Hi @magen What is the model number of the refrigerator? 2 year old refrigerators are reparable and because it is an Elite model there is a 5 year parts only warranty on the sealed system and a 10 year parts only warranty on the compressor which is better than most other models anyway as parts in the sealed system or the compressor are expensive. Please restate the problem with the refrigerator? Is it that the freezer is cooling OK but not the refrigerator, is this correct? If so then there is a defrost problem. This could be caused by either a faulty defrost heater, a faulty defrost thermostat, a blocked drain from the freezer to the evaporator pan or a faulty control board. Once your model is known I can direct you to where the parts are located etc so that they can be checked

I had one of these. First two times I had a problem I was able to google it and apply a hair dryer to defrost cooling pathways. Next time total loss. Fix it guy came over and said everything looks OK thermostat is a little out of tolerance so he is going to order one and come back and replace it. I said if the thermostat is the problem why is it calling for cooling with the compressor on 24 hours a day. He eventually said he would be back and replace the compressor. After that spent more time with the hair dryer the the compressor went out again a couple years later. Same fix it guy came back and immediately said he would replace the compressor and coil so clearly by that time this was a known issue no cost to me. Worked for another two years then same problem. That was the last straw. still under warranty but I tossed it out and got a new brand. Get your warranty repair if it is free like I did but eventually you are going to get tired of not having a fridge for 2 months every time this happens (they need to come out and diagnose then come out and fix it). Do not buy this model.

It is The compressor!!! Also, too much water pressure messes with the ice maker.

Mine was the compressor first time, then it was a hole in the fridge evaporator coil second time. Been good for the past year.